Ahemdabad was awfully hot - the dry heat saps energy, so we didn't do much. Met Kunal's friend for dinner on Saturday and the next morning we visited the Stepwells of Adalaj. Stepwells are a very typical Indian feature and a unique contribution to architecture. the tradition of building these stepwells started with the Hindus in the harappan towns, but was developed later during the Muslim rule of India.
The step-wells of Gujarat consist of two parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and the surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers and steps which provide access to the well. The galleries and chambers surrounding these wells were often carved profusely with elaborate detail and became cool, quiet retreats during the hot summers. The stepwells of Adalaj, built by Queen Rudabai in 1499 AD is 12 miles north of Ahmedabad. As the long flight of steps descend, columns and connecting beams create open structures of increasing complexity - one finds intricate carvings and motifs of erotica, dancing maidens, musicians, animals and images of Shiva, stone elephants, horses and mythical animals along the columns, cornices, wall-niches and eaves....
We reached there very early - around 6.20 am, so it was quiet and peaceful and we could soak in the beauty and charm of the place. The palce has been maintained well, with surrounding lawns full of champa trees, dozens of squirrels scampering about, quite a few peacocks and peahens (which even spread out their beautiful feathers for us), Cuckoos and Mayenahs...definitely worth being dragged out of bed at 5.30 am on a holiday!
(I discovered this Weblog about the StepWells of Adalaj as I was trying to find some photographs to push that imagination along - check it out!)
The rest of sunday was spent with relatives, lounging about etc. We caught the bus to Udaipur at 8.30 pm - me wishing I'd insisted on an A/C bus despite Kunal's intolerance of airconditioning, which wreaks havoc on his asthma. It was hot and well the rowd wasn't exactly very "happening" - but as Kunu said there's a different fun in travelling this way. Sure, he's right - we reached Udaipur at 3.30 am! LOL! Got to our hotel, which is a charming haveli (Ganghaur Ghat Hotel)converted into a heritage hotel, and collapsed onto the bed. Daylight and the sights beckoned, so we didn't stay in too long. breakfast was on a charming roof-top restaurant that overlooked the City-palace & Lake palace (which I shall not deign to talk of, so disappointed was I by its appearance).
Kunu had to do case-study of Devigadh - its a fort that has been restored and converted into an exclusive hotel. Exclusive it was - and sinfully luxurious from its mulitple gate entrances, to its landscaping, to the suites done in marble and the best of materials available, each having its own theme, design and lay-out, from the restaurant overlooking the entire valley to the fancy bar....if i wanted to stay there before, when I'd just seen photographs, I'm quite hell-bent on making it there in this life. Preferably soon, while I'm still young - ofcourse if I could get to spend my honeymoon there - I could just agree to be my husband's humble slave for the rest of my life! LOL!! ;-) I must add that the tariff for the "BASIC" suite is 175 US$ - hits you doesn't it?
The rest of our time in Udaipur was spent exploring the labyrinth of streets lined with colourful bazaars - you can buy amazing leather-bound and cloth-bound albums, and diaries at pretty decent prices off the innumerable little shops that line the streets.
Visited the Bagor ki Haveli and explored the City Palace.
Ate at charming restaurants overlooking the city - the best was Ameth, which is situated by the lake shore and overlooks all the palaces of Udaipur. It's the most charming place to eat at night - one can watch as the moon rises over the city palace, soft glowing lights come on to wash the Palace in their warmth, eat on candle-lit tables under mango trees with quaint lanterns hanging off the branches, relax as the soft sounds of the lake wash over your senses - romantic isn't it? And imagine I'm smitten despite having been there in the blistering summer - Post October Udaipur would more than live upto its reputation of being the Venice of the East!
Only down-side of the whole trip was getting into clothes that felt like they were freshly ironed (including my undergarments) - horror of horrors - so terribly is the heat in gujurat and Rajasthan in summers. Take my advice - head there, but not this vacation, just wait for October! :)
